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Wire fencing + post and rail fencing

Hi there,

This may well have been asked before.

I have recently lost closed panel fencing due to storm Doris.  And am looking to replace with something a bit more breathable.

I've a narrow garden and closed panel looks a little oppressive anyway.  I'm not the biggest fan.  Looking to replace with post and rail at about one and half metres high.  Plus some mesh.

I'm hoping to one day get a dog companion so will need to fence in.  And I'm also keen to deter cats.

I'm thinking about half metre high green mesh chicken wire, attached to the posts, with hidden behind middle rail.

The green variant seems to not be as in your face as bog standard chicken wire.  But I can't decide on square or classing hexagonal.

Only nuisance is that I think it probably a good idea to bury some fencing.   I have a slope that makes it a bit more of a pain.  I'll probably go for staggered horizonal rails, and cut the mesh for each six foot stretch.

Any pictures or recommendations of others' fencing would be welcome.  If I had the width on the garden I could put bare metal fencing behind or something but space is a premium.

My other small consideration is whether to go for three rails or two?

Square or round posts?

Decisions decisions.


Last edited: 27 February 2017 09:16:59



  • ObelixxObelixx Vendée, Western FrancePosts: 28,382

    I don't think chicken wire is sturdy enough for a bouncy dog and nothing will deter cats other than the presence of a dog and maybe a water scarecrow which is a weapon you can google.

    I'd go for rolls of the proper green mesh, plastic covered wire mesh at whatever weight you can afford.  You'll then need the vertical supports and tensioners and you'll need wire cutters to cut it to size for stepping down your slope.   

    Last edited: 27 February 2017 09:18:52

    "We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
  • chain link fencing?

  • I think it would help if you could describe the setting/location of your house so as to enable people to get an idea of what - if anything - you'd like to see beyond your garden boundary. 

    There's a style of fencing called "hit and miss" which consists of vertical posts which are fixed in such a way as to allow the wind through by not creating a totally solid barrier. It looks the same from both sides, which is not the case with solid panels and the way they are installed, because you can almost always tell the "outside" from the "inside" with those. . "Hit & miss" would be a good way of replacing solid fence panels with something equally secure as far as dogs etc are concerned.  You'd not prevent cats from gaining access though, as they are good at climbing!

    My garden is surrounded by fields, and the boundaries are a mix of hedging and post & rail fencing which has what's called "stock netting" along that part of it.  The stock netting is also along the hedges - attached to short posts which were put in very close to the hedge some years ago and since then the hedge has grown through a bit so that neither the posts or netting there are visible now.  It's totally "dog-proof" but small creatures can find their way through.  I guess that if you google "stock netting" you'll see what I mean.

  • raisingirlraisingirl East Devon, on the Edge of Exmoor.Posts: 6,196

    I'd have thought your best bet is proper stock fencing. It comes as standard 1m high. It's cheaper to buy in quantity, and sturdy enough to be tensioned (chicken wire goes 'baggy' after a while). It'll keep all but a very small dog in - next door's Jack Russel can't get through it. A Bedlington Terrier would climb over it but if you get one of those you're going to need a monkey cage (with a roof). Cats, rabbits, hedgehogs and squirrels can get through it. Our neighbour has a 3 rail fence with stock fence. Looks very tidy.

    ETA - crossed with you hypercharley image

    Last edited: 27 February 2017 10:08:11

    “Light thinks it travels faster than anything but it is wrong. No matter how fast light travels, it finds the darkness has always got there first” 
  • WaysideWayside Posts: 807

    Our garden is about 16ft wide but long, west facing, and sloped and staggered up and away from the house.  Can be windy.  Sunsets are nice, it's a great aspect actually.

    I have rentals either side (which makes negotiation more difficult), and some but not all chain link fencing.  Which actually I don't mind that much.  The neighbour isn't that keen on it.

    I have shrubs and trees and hedging on most of one border the neighbour that side has planted nothing. If we took turns in shrubbing parts of the border it would feel a bit better, as rather annoyingly I loose a lot of width of the garden because of the greenery.

    The nice thing about chain link fencing in thin gardens is that it allows some light through.  And doesn't require much attention. It isn't for the shy though.

    Chain linking a long stretch seems a bit unnerving for me, but perhaps it is an option - there are other obstacles such as existing trees hedging and shrubbery and uneven ground between properties that I won't bore you with the details but makes for more of a challenge.

    I've got a few other little stretches to do.  But this stretch is only about 24ft.  The hit and miss is a good idea.  Or possibly palisade.

    Because it has been somewhat an opaque stretch it might be a bit much to suddenly remove (only chest high).  However I've got loads of hops that will run rampant and cover something like post and rail pretty quickly - and will allow me to plant where there was previous shade.

    Cheap but good options.

    That stretch was only put up about 5 years ago and has suffered due to neighbourly neglect and wind.

    Thanks for all suggestions so far, all very helpful.

    Last edited: 27 February 2017 12:06:41

  • Wayside we had a green mesh coated fence, with heavy duty metal stakes set in concrete every 6 feet or so.  The fence was put up by my OH and Dad and lasted 30 years, and it was only because the neighbours allowed their side to become overgrown in ivy and tree roots that the fence had to be renewed earlier this year. They had to foot the bill and I don't know how much it cost.

    I would certainly recommend this, as I reckon any wooden panel fence would either rot or blow down after a few years. 

    Incidentally the wire fence is 5 - 6 foot tall, and is buried at least 6 inches into the ground, to help keep the wild rabbits out.

    Last edited: 27 February 2017 12:53:56

  • WaysideWayside Posts: 807

    5-6 feet high here would feel like a prison.  But given the space I think wire fencing is a great idea.  You can easily loose it into the background.

  • Yes, it is high, but rabbits can jump and so can cats and dogs and the idea is to keep them out of our garden.  Like you say Wayside, green won't be such an eyesore.  We have a large garden and the fence isn't visible from our windows, but once a few plants have been planted nearby the fence won't be so prominent. I have moved some daffodils (before they shot up) and flowered and some Monbretia alongside the fence.  However the area is wild so we won't be cultivating any delicate plants alongside it.

    I will try to get a photo in the next few days. Good luck with the fence Wayside.

  • Just a warning, so you can think ahead - hops are toxic to dogs!

  • I use 1.25 acres left over from my smallholding after I retired.  The stock fence has been there for over 30 and is as sturdy as ever, it is just the posts that rot.  Rolls are reasonably cheap from farm supplies stores like Mole.  Mine was fencing for stock so it was topped with barbed wire, but my first Flatcoated Retriever and one young Holstein heifer (not always the name I used) could jump it with ease.  Tensioning is the hard part if you don't have the proper tool but is 'get-round-able'.

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