first time tomato grower seeks advice

Lots of leaves ,lots of yellow flowers. Not sure what and how much to cut away. Can the greenhouse get too hot and when should I open the window? Watering every evening and feeding as per instructions. Keen that my first foray should succeed, all help appreciated thanks  John in Aberdeen

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Posts

  • marshmellomarshmello Posts: 683

    Windows and doors should be open now, mine have been for weeks. What exactly do you want to cut away ?

  • everoseveros Posts: 55

    I'm leaving the window & door open all the time at the moment.  It get's very hot during the day so I'm watering first thing in the morning, mid-day & in the evening. I pinch out the side shoots as they grow, everying seems ok at the moment.

  • fidgetbonesfidgetbones Posts: 11,254

    My windows, doors and vents are all open. You may need to shade the greenhouse. Fine netting is good, because if it starts to rain you can just take it off.

    Just cut leaves off if they go yellow or brown. If they are green they are providing food for the plant .

     You may need to water twice a day in this heat. If they get too dry while the fruit are forming you get blossom end rot.

    It's not a mess, it's a nature reserve.
  • Bf206Bf206 Posts: 235

    How often would you water tomatoes in pots? Mine are in 25 litre containers but I've been very wary of over-watering. Possibly too much so! I've only been watering them every few days?

  • ItalophileItalophile Posts: 1,647

    John, it's a good idea to stick a thermometer inside the greenhouse to get a firm idea of temps.

    Ventilation is not only a good idea on warm days. It's essential to keep air circulating as an aid against fungal diseases. Fungal spores love nothing more than still, humid air.

    It's a good idea to remove the lower branches and foliage to keep a gap of 12-18" between the soil and the lowest foliage. It's another aid against fungal problems. Fungal spores can and will drop from the foliage to the soil beneath and can be splashed back up again when watering. The gap helps against this.

    You also want to avoid clumps of impenetrable foliage. They work against air circulation, hence offer a haven for fungal spores. Trim branches and foliage judiciously to avoid clumps. Don't overdo it, though, you don't want to remove so much foliage that it threatens the process of photosynthesis.

    Nip off the suckers/side shoots, those mini branches that develop diagonally at the intersection of the main stem and its branches.

    Don't water by rote. Water when necessary. That means when the mix is dry. Don't keep the mix permanently damp. Few plants like permanently damp roots and toms aren't one of them.

    Finally, don't be tempted to overfertilise. In containers, a feed once a month will do the job.

    fidgetbones, the mix drying out doesn't cause Blossom End Rot. BER comes about as a result of plant stress, one cause of which can be irregular watering patterns. A regular watering pattern - eg, letting the mix dry out between waterings - is fine. It's when you depart from a regular pattern that a plant can become stressed.

  • ItalophileItalophile Posts: 1,647
    Bf206 wrote (see)

    How often would you water tomatoes in pots? Mine are in 25 litre containers but I've been very wary of over-watering. Possibly too much so! I've only been watering them every few days?

    Bf, water when necessary. You can let the mix dry out. Within reason, obviously. Don't leave it bone dry for two or three days. If in doubt, stick your finger deep down the side of the pot into the mix and feel for moisture. On the whole, though, as with everything with toms, less is better. Toms will produce at their best with "controlled neglect".

  • addictaddict Posts: 659
    Bf206 wrote (see)

    How often would you water tomatoes in pots? Mine are in 25 litre containers but I've been very wary of over-watering. Possibly too much so! I've only been watering them every few days?

    When you do water make sure you water enough. Water til the water runs through the bottom and then again so compost completely wet then walk away for a few days til dry again. It is pointless watering little and often as it will not reach the roots.

  • ItalophileItalophile Posts: 1,647

    Good advice. Even more so for toms planted in the ground. Infrequent very deep watering is the go. It drives the roots deeper into the soil. Frequent shallow watering keeps the roots towards the surface.

  • Bf206Bf206 Posts: 235

    brill, thanks. have indeed noticed the odd flash of root near the surface in a few pots... There's a bit of space for me to add a little more compost. I suspect I haven't been getting the water deep enough. What would you say is best, ie watering can, hose on a fine spray (splashes up though), more of a slow trickle..?

  • bigolobbigolob Posts: 127

    Watering Toms is entirely according to how hot the GH is and how damp the growing medium is. It is NOT every few days no matter what. Water when the compost or in pots or soil is drying out otherwise the fruit can split if dryness occurs.

    Fertiliser can be applied weekly or at present with the hot weather every 2 days. The common way to feed is every secong watering.

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