Dwarf fruit trees

I have recently acquired an allotment.  I would like to plant 2-3 dwarf fruit trees.  Can anyone give me some advice regarding varieties that will fruit next year.

«1

Posts

  • pansyfacepansyface PEAK DISTRICT DerbyshirePosts: 15,271

    Any tree that you buy will be very young, whether it is in a pot or (later on in the autumn) bare rooted. It will need to establish itself in its new home by growing roots. Next summer is far too soon to be cropping from such a young tree. Even if it flowers well the flowers must not be allowed to set fruit next summer. The following summer, 2017, you can let a handful of flowers develop into fruit. This is necessary to avoid putting the tree under too much stress in its early life.

    Apophthegm -  a big word for a small thought.
  • Thank you so much for the very informative information pansyface.  Is this also applicable to fruit bushes.

  • pansyfacepansyface PEAK DISTRICT DerbyshirePosts: 15,271

    Things like gooseberries, blackcurrants and red currants produce fruit on the growth that they made the previous year. So if you buy a bush of this type now you might be lucky to get a couple of berries next year on the stems that you see in the shop. But the same thing applies to their needing to settle down and make roots. Nothing will provide you with "a crop" next year if you plant it this autumn.

    There are two types of raspberries. Both would begin to produce long canes next spring. One type would make a few berries in the autumn (a few because they are newly planted). The other type would produce fruit on those canes in summer 2017.

    I can't think of any other types of fruit bushes just now.image

    Apophthegm -  a big word for a small thought.
  • Many thanks pansyface.  You have been very helpful 

  • Many thanks Verdun.  I will look at the websites

  • treehugger80treehugger80 Posts: 1,873

    plant any tree from November onwards,

    Remember to pick the correct root stock for apples is use M26 which gets to about 12 foot if left to it or MM106 which gets to about 13 foot left to it. Obviously trained they are a lot smaller! don't be tempted to get M27 (super dwarfing) I've never found that they take very well.

    for plums I use St Julien A.

    in the first spring take ALL the blossom off, this way the plant focuses on root growth instead of fruit, this means your fruit for the years after will be better.

    research the varieties, you want something that is disease resistant and can grow in your climate well (i'm more limited than some as I live in Northern England and some apples just don't do well here!)

  • Many thanks treehugger80.  If I buy an  M26 this  November,  how do I control the growth in future years.

  • pansyfacepansyface PEAK DISTRICT DerbyshirePosts: 15,271

    M27 rootstock makes a small apple  tree, maybe 6 feet tall. But there are pros and cons with dwarfing rootstocks. The smaller the ultimate size, the greater care it requires in the way of soil richness, the aspect (sunny), lack of competition from grass etc. The bigger rootstocks let you get away with poorer soils, less favoured aspects and encroaching grass but they take up more space and generally make for later development.

    I have bought trees from Deacon's, Orange Pippin, Keepers and, just this week, Bernwode Fruit Trees. They are all reputable people and will be happy to advise you on the best varieties for your area.

    Apophthegm -  a big word for a small thought.
Sign In or Register to comment.