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Using lawn weed killer, iron sulphate and lawn fertilizer at the same time

Hello. I have a weed ridden and patchy lawn. From looking around at this site and elsewhere it seems I need to use

  • lawn weed killer to kill the Dandelions and other weeds,
  • iron sulphate to green up the lawn and kill the moss and
  • lawn fertilizer to help the grass grow


I guess I should also put seed on the bald areas. The thing is that I can't work out what order to use the above 3 chemicals in, what time to leave between the application of each and how frequently I should use all of the above.

I hope someone can help. I've literally only ever cut the grass in my garden to date but I'm keen to do much more. 




  • I agree with Verdun, use a proprietary autumn lawn weed/feed/mosskiller and then in Spring use a similar all in one formulated for spring application. 

    Don't use a spring one in the autumn image

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.

  • Thanks folks - i'll use an all in the one product and leave the seeds until Spring. With that said, while researching this i've found 3 other topics i need to consider! Aerating, scarifying and top dressing. This is looking way way more complicated than I had at first imagined!

  • image What's the difference?


  • Ah yes - my wife refuses to do any weeding etc referring to our garden as a wild woodland look image This has lead me to take an interest and try to make it a bit more civilised.


  • Steve 309Steve 309 Posts: 2,753

    Too late now for this season, but next year, (apart from a weed and feed), I'd cut it twice a week.  That will select out some of the weeds and produce a finer lawn.  In fact, that treatment alone will improve the average lawn!

    What you can do now is aerate it.  Use an ordinary garden fork and shove it vertically in all the way.  The harder this is to do the more important it is to do it. Wiggle it about enough to get it out again, move forward a foot (or a third of a metre if you prefer) and do it again.  Carry on till you've covered the whole lawn.  You don't need to do it all in one go!

    This allows air in so the roots can get oxygen and the aerobic nitrifying bacteria can work well, and also promotes drainage.  All this helps grass to grow.  Then you can cut it all off.  Are you sure you want to do this?

    (There is a machine that will do the spiking.  I've never used one; I doubt it it gets deep enough and it's probably expensive.)

    And scarifying.  Which is also hard work, also doesn't have to be done all in one go and also has an expensive and probably not very successful machine to do it. And it'll look awful for a few weeks.  Months, if you do it now.

    How good a lawn do you want?

  • Steve 309Steve 309 Posts: 2,753

    Cross-posted with that, Verdun.  Very true.

    I'd spike it now though.

  • Steve - thanks that is very useful. I've spent what seems like hours now reading about scarifying and aerating. I'd like, over time, to have a lovely lawn. However, a couple of things that will always limit it are the fact that both in the front and the rear we have very large evergreen trees that drop needles. They kill the grass directly around the tree. Also, the rear garden is largely in the shade as there are tree's overhanging much of the width of it.

    I'm really quite confused about what the best way forward is at this time. 

  • Verdun - thanks. So just aerate it now and then scarify in spring followed by putting the seeds down afterwards?

    Been reading about solid, hollow and flat tines. I didn't even know that a tine was a thing this morning image

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