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Tomato blight treatment help

onr of my tomato plants seems to have blight and or septoria. in addition to the mottled spotted leaves and stems which look like classic septoria some of the tomatoes have gray mottled areas. I removed all the affected leaves. What about the affected stems and fruit. Can I treat with fugacide or should I pull the affected fruit.?  There are lots of beautiful huge unaffected tomatoes on the plant that are still green. It's an heirloom called northern lights. And there are other plants that dont seem to be infected yet. 



  • Thx I removed all affected leaves but stems and some fruit are affected and now it's spreAd overnight to other plants. I sprayed biosafe - safe through harvest . If someone can tell me how I can post pics. Other ideas ?
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 87,899

    To post pictures on here you need to click on the green tree icon on the toolbar above where you type your post - afraid it doesn't work for iphones ........ yet.

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.

  • Ah that explains it I am using iPhone
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 87,899

    Can you upload the pics to a photo-hosting site and then post the links?

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.

  • Steve 309Steve 309 Posts: 2,753

    Is it worth, I wonder, taking the uninfected trusses off the plants and ripening them elsewhere after a good wash?  They could be stored like grapes with the stem in a bottle of water.

    I really wouldn't use pesticides on stuff you're about to eat, 'biosafe' or not!

  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 87,899

    I agree Steve - no way I'd spray food I was about to eat.  And anyway, fungicides are preventatives, not cures - once the blight has taken hold it's there. 

    Some blights can be controlled by removing (and burning) all affected leaflets as soon as you spot a blemish - when mine had blight I inspected the plants three times a day and removed the leaflets as soon as I spotted something.  We still got a reasonable crop of tomatoes.

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.

  • UPDATE. after consulting with the supplier of my plants and taking samples of affected plants to local nursery turns out I have SPIDER MITES to be sure I did the white paper test shook the leaves over white paper got black specks and the specks crawled and I found tiny webs in between leaves so definitely spider mites. I understand the sensitivity to spraying food but anything I use is organic and food safe - the bio safe is essentially diluted hydrogen peroxide (people gargle hydrogen peroxide and clean wounds with it).  for  the mites if i don't act to prevent spreading  my entire crop will be gone so  I am Spraying with neem oil any other ideas??

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