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Raising the level of a lawn

LG_LG_ SE LondonPosts: 3,943
Hello,   We have had our old, very broken up paths replaced with paving slabs and 'mowing strips' put round where the lawn will go. For various reasons I won't bore you with here the level of the path and edges has had to be several inches higher than previously.   We were always going to replace the lawn too (it's pretty non existent, full of weeds and worn / pitted, and the building work has finished it off), but the plan had been to remove the turf, add some top soil and then seed / lay new turf. The raised levels mean we need to do a lot more than that! So I'm looking for suggestions on how we can avoid the expense of getting tonnes and tonnes of top soil in (not to mention the fact that access is not easy and all top soil would have to be barrowed through).    Can we leave the existing turf, such as it is, and put turf that we cut from areas that are not being relaid to lawn on top, to gain a couple of inches? Is there anything else we can do to riase the level, so that we only need a couple of final inches of topsoil?    Any other suggestions?    Thanks
'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
- Cicero
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  • LG_LG_ SE LondonPosts: 3,943

    Thanks for replying though image

    My instinct is to do this, but I'd really like to find out if there's any way I can reduce the amount of topsoil i need. I dread to think how much a 6 inch layer over an area of about 400 sq ft will be. 

    'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
    - Cicero
  • LG_LG_ SE LondonPosts: 3,943

    That's a good point!

    'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
    - Cicero
  • dominomandominoman Posts: 150

    If you're going to add soil then you could just add it when you can over the course of a few months.  If you add it slowly the grass will just grow up through it and you won't need to reseed.

    Personally I would get a strong Glyphosate weedkiller (Roundup etc) and spray the whole lawn thoroughly.  Then leave it a couple of weeks for the poison to kill the grass and all the weeds. 

    If you get cheap topsoil or topsoil off freecycle then it's best to leave it a few weeks after you spread it to allow the weeds to emerge, and then spray them with glyphosate again so you are starting from a clean base before laying the new lawn

  • LG_LG_ SE LondonPosts: 3,943

    Yes, I think however we approach it, it's going to have to be done over a few months. The builder reckons we'll need 15 tons of topsoil!!! And that doesn't include the fact that we were hoping to set up a few raised beds which will also need filling. I feel quite faint...

    'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
    - Cicero
  • LG_LG_ SE LondonPosts: 3,943

    I'm more concerned about my back and my wallet!

    'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
    - Cicero
  • LG_LG_ SE LondonPosts: 3,943

    Believe me, I have considered this (especially as I've always loved sunken gardens). I don't think it would work, but I will wait until the work is completely finished then take a step back and have a calm think. 

    'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
    - Cicero
  • LG_LG_ SE LondonPosts: 3,943

    I will if anyone's interested! 

    It's a long term job, that's for sure. 

    'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
    - Cicero
  • 4thPanda4thPanda Posts: 4,145

    And with pics image Please image

  • LeadFarmerLeadFarmer Posts: 1,226

    Why not put a layer of loose hardcore down first to add to drainage, then topsoil on top. Could also add grit/sharp sand to the soil which will also add to drainage and maybe make it cheaper?

  • hogweedhogweed Central ScotlandPosts: 4,050
    No matter what you use to raise the level, you will still have to barrow it round from the front. Good luck! And I hope you have a strong barrow!
    'Optimism is the faith that leads to achievement' - Helen Keller
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