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no fruit on tree

willowillo Posts: 24

Hi All

Help needed. Enclosed are pictures of the leaves on my apple tree. Last year it produced a lot of fruit but it seems very bare this year. What is happening to it? It is in front of a log cabin, could this be problem for it's growth?

 

 

thank you

image

image

 Pictures need rotating. Sorry but I don't know how to do this.

thanks, any help appreciated

 

Posts

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    Where is the tress positioned? 

    in full sun or partial?

    also it could be a problem with soil fertility  

    & a lack of pruning.

     

  • willowillo Posts: 24

    Thank you HappyGrower

    the tree is in partial sunlight and the soil is clay. The tree has not been pruned so I need to look at that. Could it's growth be hindered by being directly in front of the log cabin and the branches are bent under the roof. Any further help appreciated.

  • pansyfacepansyface Posts: 21,531

    Do you know the variety? It looks a bit young but biennial bearing could be the problem. See here

    https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=280

     

    Apophthegm -  a big word for a small thought.
    If you live in Derbyshire, as I do.
  • willowillo Posts: 24

    Thank you pansyface, I don't know the variety but biennial bearing could be the problem. Thank you for the link I will read and follow the guide

  • Steve 309Steve 309 Posts: 2,753

    Pruning will certainly help, as long as it's done correctly. 

    Some of the leaves look healthy but some are scrunched up, which usually indicates attack by aphids or some other pest.  This won't cause failure to fruit though.

    Did it flower?

  • willowillo Posts: 24

    Thank you Steve.Will look at pruning the tree.

  • Steve 309Steve 309 Posts: 2,753

    If it's a young tree and still needs forming it's best to prune it in the winter.  If it's old and already shaped, and big, it needs doing nowish to discourage it from getting too much bigger.

    The variety is important: most are 'spur bearers'having their fruit on little spurs (side branches) on 2 yr-old and older wood but a significant minority are 'tip-bearers'.  They need pruning differently so you need to know what variety it is.  Did you plant it?

    If it flowered in the spring but failed to set fruit you have a pollination problem - are there any other apple trees nearby?  They (almost) all need another variety to pollinate them.  If it flowered and set fruit but they all dropped off when they were tiny, it was probably short of water.  If it didn't flower at all, I don't know - but someone will.....

  • willowillo Posts: 24

    Hi Steve, I did not plant the tree it must be around 15 years old but isn't a big tree. There are no other apples trees around it. I've had a look at the tree and there is one small apple growing on it. I can't remember seeing any flowers in the spring or it setting any fruit. Will try and find out variety of apple.

  • Sarah147Sarah147 Posts: 1

    imageThis is my mums braeburn apple tree, it didn't flower this year and clearly has some aphid issues but can anyone tell me what's going on with bark?

    Last edited: 15 June 2016 17:40:47

  • pansyfacepansyface Posts: 21,531

    THAT IS CANKER. SOME VARIETIES ARE MORE PRONE TO IT THAN OTHERS. IT IS A BACTERIUM THAT ENTERS THE TREE THROUGH A CUT OR A SCRAPE OR SOME OTHER MINOR DAMAGE. IT GRADUALLY ENCIRCLES THE BARK OF THE BRANCH AND KILLS IT.

    SOME PEOPLE SAY SCRAPE THE DAMAGE OUT WITH A SHARP KNIFE ON A DRY DAY.

    SOME SAY COVER THE RESULTING EXPOSED TIMBER WITH A WOUND PAINT. SOME SAY LEAVE IT OPEN TO THE AIR.

    I HAVE A BLENHEIM ORANGE TREE WHICH GETS CANKER FASTER THAN YOU CAN SAY JIMMINY CRICKET. IN THE EARLY YEARS I DID ALL THE CUTTING OUT AND SCRAPING AND PAINTING MALARKEY. I THEN READ ABOUT THE EFFECTIVENESS OF USING A BLOW TORCH.

    I HAVE TRIED THIS WITH GREAT SUCCESS. IF YOU HAVE ONE OF THOSE COOKS' BLOW TORCHES THAT IS QUITE STRONG ENOUGH. YOU DON'T WANT TO START A FOREST FIRE,

    DON'T BOTHER CUTTING AWAY ANY DISEASED WOOD OR BARK. JUST LIGHT THE TORCH AND APPLY IT TO THE AFFECTED PART. NO FURTHER, THE HEAT WILL TRAVEL A LITTLE WAY ALONG THE BRANCH IN EITHER DIRECTION AND KILL OFF ANY FURTHER ROT. APPLY THE TORCH FOR ABOUT AS LONG AS IF YOU WERE TRYING TO BRULEE A CREME BRULEE - MAYBE 15 SECONDS OR SO? DON'T EXPECT TO SEE ANY PARTICULAR ACTIVITY IN THE WAY OF SMOKE OR BUBBLES OR ANYTHING DRAMATIC LIKE THAT.

    AFTER A FEW DAYS YOU WILL SEE THAT THE BARK AROUND THE ROT HAS GONE A RATHER ALARMING PALE GOLDEN COLOUR. DON'T WORRY. AFTER A FEW WEEKS YOU WILL SEE NEW BUDS BREAKING ON EITHER SIDE OF THE ROT. CULTIVATE THESE .

    UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES APPLY THE TORCH TO THE ENTIRE CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE BRANCH OR YOU WILL KILL IT.

    Apophthegm -  a big word for a small thought.
    If you live in Derbyshire, as I do.
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