Repairing conifer soil damage
We moved into our house last Christmas. The garden is north facing with 50' of lawn and had large conifer trees along the west fence (six in total, approx 8-10 m tall), so the garden received next to no direct sunlight. I've chopped down the trees, scarified extensively, reseeded and overseeded with grass seed and now the lawn is starting to come together. However, the soil is noticeably poorer at the bottom half of the lawn that's nearer the old conifer trees. It's dry and crumbly and has far fewer worms. Consequently (coincidentally?) the grass grows much slower here and is less lush. There are conifer roots just below the surface of the lawn although the stumps are dead. I assume the conifers have stripped the soil of nutrients over many many years. I don't want to rip up the lawn to nourish the soil, can I add anything to the lawn to improve soil quality? Does it require repeated applications over many years? I read about adding a thin layer of peat moss but am concerned about the ecological impact. I should stress that I'm concerned about the soil quality rather than the growth of the grass. I can add chemical fertilisers if I'm that bothered about the grass, but I really want to address the underlying issue. I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
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Autumn lawn feed concentrates on encouraging root growth. Suggest you give it a feed now and again next spring and autumn. Don't use summer fertiliser for a couple of years or until you think the grass is back growing normally. Also spread some multi purpose potting compost or some such , new or spent, after you have fertilised. Just a thin layer, and inch or so will do. Fork it to improve drainage and to encourage some MPC to go down below the surface. Brush MPC down the holes. Do this each time you fertilise to gradually build up the quality of the soil.Your grass should start growing more strongly. You could mix in some grass seed suitable for shade/ hard wearing conditions. Don't let it dry out in hot/dry spells.( not sure if it ever a good idea to add moss to your grass)
I have a similar problem area under some ash trees... above treatment has helped improve it greatly.
I've recently spread bone meal as that has a high phosphorus rating (for roots) and is slow release, shall I add add more in the Spring? Or is there something better to spread? The options are overwhelming!
I haven't used bonemeal, just Autumn lawn feed which should also kill off any moss problems. Bob Flowerdew once said on GQT that he always uses Autumn feed in spring because if you build up strong roots the rest will follow.
BM should have the same beneficial effect, suggest you use either 2 times a year minimum, with perhaps an added dose in mid summer when conditions permit, i.e. not too hot and dry. Add a little MPC to balance out the chemicals, the build up of which might prove a little harsh.
I think this regime can only benefit your grass.
We had a similar lawn when we moved here 3 years ago (large ash trees at the end of the garden). As well as scarifying, aerating and brushing in some compost as WW has described above, we've given a feed of seaweed plant food http://www.marshalls-seeds.co.uk/seaweed-enhanced-plant-growth-stimulant-pid5030.html?gclid=CKvW3Z6h0sECFQoUwwodhTIAjA&gclsrc=aw.ds in the spring and again in mid summer, and watered it in well. We chose to use this rather than proprietary lawn feeds as we have lots of wildlife (including frogs, toads, hedgehogs, grass snakes etc) and didn't want to use anything that could affect them. With regular mowing and continuing to scarify and aerate twice a year, the lawn has improved immeasurably.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
It'll slow down when the weather gets cold.
The other advantage of chicken manure over inorganic fertiliser is that it doesn't take oil energy to manufacture/extract. Or produce toxic by-products. Or wash out and cause eutrophication in the local river. (or provide employment...)
Glad it's working anyway