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Lawn Maintenance

Now that we are in September, (I know, where does the time go? )  I would like to know the best way to prepare for a healthy lawn for the spring. For example scarifying, aerating, overseeding etc. Could anyone advise on best methods/time to do this? thankyou. 

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  • MeomyeMeomye Posts: 949

    Thanks for that Waterbutts, yes it is rather quiet, but then, it is a good day for being outside. I am sure the good people with wonderful advice will be back later !   

  • XX Posts: 707

    It depends what condition your lawn is in Meomye, personally I'm going to aerate mine, power rake it, overseed it and possibly lightly cover the seed with a bit of multi purpose compost.  Do you have any moss in your lawn?  If so, it will need killing off before any raking out.  I'll start on my lawn in next couple of weeks while weather is still warm and its starting to get damp.  Only battle I have is keeping the falling leaves off of the lawn while the new seed is getting going.

  • MeomyeMeomye Posts: 949

    Hi Paula, Yes unfortunately I do have moss and speedwell in my lawn, so should I start to put a moss/weedkiller down now and then rake in a week or so, or should I defer for a couple of weeks? Also, is power raking the same thing as scaryfing? Thanks

  • I would wait until it starts to get wetter the temperature is going up again with no sign of rain yet plus this weed we have a estimated 28 degree 

     

    James

  • XX Posts: 707

    Hi again Meomye, give it a couple of weeks and then use an autumn feed and mosskiller (it's a combined product), it won't produce lush green growth that you don't want at this time of year anyway but the moss will turn black.  Leave it a week to 10 days and then use a powered rake if you have one to rake out thatch and dead moss and then mow to pick up anything left behind.  If your lawn isn't too big can rake it with a wire rake if you fancy a workout!  After raking, sprinkle an organic feed around - I use bonemeal at this time of year and then overseed the lawn with a general purpose utility lawn seed, top dress if you want (i don't tend to top dress large areas) with top soil or multipurpose compost and keep it damp - not soaking wet. If you can, try and give it a couple of mows before winter just to take the top off of the new grass. You should have a half decent lawn come next spring.  

    As far as I know raking is just raking the surface of the lawn, scarifying cuts down into the roots of the grass to encourage thickening up.

  • MeomyeMeomye Posts: 949

    Thanks for your advice Paula. I will follow your instructions in a few weeks time. I always seem to have a problem with 'seed' just sitting on the top that doesn't 'bed in' and then when I water it floats about !

  • XX Posts: 707

    Might be an idea to aerate your lawn Meomye, either with a garden fork driven down about 4-6" all over the lawn but it's hard work, or use a rolling aerator which isn't quite as hard.  If your ground is compacted water will just sit on the surface and seed roots won't be able to penetrate the soil.  After putting seed down it might be worth top dressing as that will help the seed to stay put before germinating.  Proper scarifying before seeding (cutting slits down through the soil surface) would help as well but only ever do this during autumn or spring.  It's hard work getting a lawn back to a decent condition but once you've done it properly once it's not as difficult in future.

  • ross2ross2 Posts: 11

    Hi Meomye,

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    Can you tell me why you want to overseed, have you bare areas or is the sward particularly weak?  If not, i feel that overseeding to be a waste of money.  I have over a hundred lawn care customers and i don’t overseed any of them  as a matter of course.  An autumn selective weed application, followed about a fortnight later  by a good scarify to remove surface debris and an iron application around Christmas will keep good colour and help slow down any moss invasion.  If i can be of more help mail me thecoursemanager@hotmail.com

    Regards

    Ross

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  • MeomyeMeomye Posts: 949

    Hi Ross2, wasn't planning to overseed all over, just assumed there was going to be a lot of bare patches once moss and thatch were absent. Do you think this is necessary or will the gaps fill naturally? Also, could you tell me to what iron application you refer and what the next steps are. Many thanks  

  • ross2ross2 Posts: 11

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    Hi Meomye,

    It would be my personal preference to carry out scarification in the spring, after selective weed control has weakened or dispatched any broadleaf weeds.  My reasoning behind this is, the fact that you raise. the point about recovery  Carrying out heavy scarification in the autumn, may well leave small or even large areas devoid of grass, if the autumn then takes an unexpected cold snap, good seed germination could be hampered, thus going through the winter with a patchy lawn.  Conversely, if carried out in the spring, the weather will at some stage be conducive to good germination and therefore good all round recovery. 

    Hollow core aeration however, again in my opinion, should be done in the winter months, (if any one wishes me to expand this view point I would be happy to do so, just ask).

    The iron application that I use is a simple application of sulphate of iron, more expensive irons are available, but why spend money that is not needed.  Sulphate of iron can be applied at a rate between 8 to 20kg/ha in 300 to 600 litres of water per ha.  (if you want me to put this into a knapsack application rate just let me know) When putting into a solution use very hot water, it will dissolve much better, if you add a little liquid nitrogen fertiliser to the solution it will be taken up much faster by the plant.  If this all sounds a little to daunting you could always get a lawn care company to do it for you, if so you can find one on http://www.uklawncare.net

    If I can be of any more help, please let me know.

    Regards

    Ross

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