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Weigela - how to prune it now - bit of an awkward shape

I got some good advice from you to take out the all-green stems of my weigela at the base, and then give it a moderate prune now if I wish, to get it under control, though it might not flower early next spring if I do that.
I took some photos of it as it is now, with the all-green stems out, as it's much easier to see the shape now.
It's a bit of an awkward shape, and I was wondering how much I should prune it now - would taking one third off of the leafy part of the upper stems be good, or do I need to cut down much more into the woody part to re-shape it and make it bushier?
Thank you very much.

Posts

  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,043
    I think I would cut down that thick stem in the middle, but I can't really see how much growth there is coming from the top of it. Try gently pulling it to the side so you can see what's growing from it, before you cut. Wherever you cut, it will produce new stems from just below the cut, probably in the spring, so if you want new shoots from near the base you'd need to cut it down low, maybe about 6 inches from the ground. Those shoots will then flower the following year, so you could leave it as it is until immediately after flowering time and then prune it, if you prefer.
    Are the stubby bits at the bottom dead? If so you could remove them altogether. And if they had only all-green growth coming from them, they'll produce more of the same so they should be removed right down to the ground.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • Pink678Pink678 Posts: 384
    edited 14 November
    That's so helpful, thank you JennyJ.
    I will check that thick stem in the middle tomorrow when it's light. I would like new stems from the base because the way it is now, there's a lot of wood before the leafy growth starts happening. I will update tomorrow on that.
    The two stubby bits about 6-8 inches long in the middle and on the left are what I cut today, they were the stems with all green leaves on. So I should cut them as close to the ground as possible then? I didn't today because they were getting quite tough at the bottom, but I am sure I can find a way to do it.
    The other tiny stubby bits are all dead ones, and I can cut them down further too.
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,043
    Yes, the branches that had green growth will sprout again with green growth if you leave them. Once you have a reverted branch, it stays that way and grows stronger than the variegated parts if you let it. It'll keep until spring if you like, there won't be much growth, if any, before then. Loppers are probably the best tool for pruning the thick stems - maybe put them on your Christmas wish-list :).
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • Pink678Pink678 Posts: 384
    edited 15 November
    Thank you Jenny J - yes, it's an awkward angle down there too, and getting thicker at ground level. I do have some loppers, so I might be able to do it if I try again, or if not I'll wait until spring and get someone to help me.
    I just checked the thick stem in the middle and it probably carries around 1/2 to 2/5 of the leaves. So I'm thinking now, although it looks a bit funny maybe I'll leave it all now and let it flower late spring/early summer next year, and then prune it.
    To prune it next year, shall I cut all 3 stems quite a lot, taking the cut quite far down so all the leaves are gone - maybe one third down from the top of where the bare wood starts?  Then I'd have 3 bare stems and no leaves!  I wonder how long it would take for leaves to grow again.
    Ah, I see now you were suggesting to take the entire middle stem out?
    Any suggestions for a plan of action much appreciated!
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,043
    You can take one main branch down to a lower level (or completely remove) each year if you like, so you retain some leaves and some colour and gradually reshape it over three years. Each one should produce new branches from the leaf axils/nodes just below where you prune, or from the base of the shrub. It's often recommended to take out one third of the old branches down to ground level each year to keep it from turning into a woody thicket, but at the moment that would be one branch for yours. I was only suggesting complete removal of the branches that are dead or produce all-green leaves.  But its up to you, they're tough so you probably won't kill it, even if you took the whole lot back to ground level all at once (you'd lose next year's flowers though)
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • Pink678Pink678 Posts: 384
    That's a really good idea I like the sound of that :). I think I'll do that then - leave it all as-is for now, and get those remaining stubs of the green leaved ones cut at ground level. Then after flowering prune one stem per year. If not to ground level, then how far down would you prune the one stem?
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,043
    You can take them as far as you like - try to envisage new shoots growing from just below where you cut.If you don't like the effect you can always take it down further the following year. I'd probably go right down to a couple of inches above the ground but then I tend to be a bit gung-ho when it comes to pruning.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • Pink678Pink678 Posts: 384
    That all makes perfect sense, thank you JennyJ. I think I might end up going quite far down, as that will hopefully make a more bushy and less leggy overall shape, without so much bare wood before the leaves start.
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