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The make your own compost thread

I'm a keen composter, I know a bit, I don't know it all, I just think it's important  (as gardeners) to do it.
 It would be good to talk about it here and encourage you (composters) and those who need converting to chat about it. Let me/us convince you that you can make your own, if you do make your own then talk about how you do it and why.
Home composting problems? Post them up!

Am I a compost expert? Absolutely not. I got into gardening for all the right reasons and found that those same ethics applied to DIY compost too so have been having a go for a few years now with great success.

If you put your garden waste into the Council bin to be taken away they charge you for it (either separately or it's already included). They then sell it onto compost makers. They make it into compost and sell it back to you.
So you're paying for it twice, they're making mugs of you.
Particularly as when you get it back it's often terrible! It can even have traces of weedkiller in it which will effect your plants.

Advantages of making your own:
It's cheaper.
Less toll on the planet: You aren't buying plastic bags. The bin wagon isn't stopping at your house, the ingredients you need and use aren't being driven around the country before being sold back to you.
You'll be sure there is no weedkiller in the mix.
You are in charge of the time, method and ingredients so make it to suit whatever final use it has. Potting compost, general use or whatever.

Disadvantages

Some weed and grass roots and seeds can survive, but it's not a huge issue and bought compost often has them in anyhow.
It takes time, a little space and you'll need to put a bit of physical effort into turning it over now and again. The latter can be an advantage of course...

Common excuses/misnomers:

I don't have the space. Unless you've got nothing but a window box or a balcony you do. A compost bin or heap is part of a working garden, it's like a raised bed, a path, a flower bed. It has it's place somewhere.
It's too wet/cold. Wrong. If it's too wet then cover it over and no, it never gets too cold for compost. I can show you a Youtube clip of a guy getting a hot shower in the snow. The water was heated by his compost heap. I make successful compost up here on the Pennines.

I don't like the look of it. Buy a compost bin and paint some flowers on it, hide it. Heck, make it into a Dalek or whatever. 
You could even create a composter in the ground. Yes really! Dig a hole, put the ingredients in, soil back over the top and walk away. In maybe 3 months uncover it and turn it over before leaving it another 3 months. Then dig it up, if it's ready then use it.

Types of composters:

As per above, a simple hole in the ground could do. That aside:
Some pallets used to form a square is cheap and simple (pallets are often free if you have a car big enough or can carry them home). Simply screw them together at the corners with some cheap angle brackets and/or tie a rope or strap around them.

The common 'compost dalek' or simple bin is cheap, or often even free.

Rotating composter. If it's in within your budget then theses are great and available in many different sizes.

Hot composter. We're getting into expensive and pro territory here...

Bokashi Bin. I have no experience of these, but if you have a small output of waste and a small space they may just suit you.

If you don't want to buy new, then buy used or for free, Facebook marketplace and Freecycle are just two places which are good for this.

Ingredients.
You need somewhere around equal amounts of 'brown' & 'Green' waste.

All kitchen veg scraps, nothing else (no meat, dairy etc) are green.
All your waste cardboard and paper are brown. Throw it in whole, unless it's a book or too big to go in there is no need to shred. In fact, the more air pockets in there the better. If your cardboard has tape on it then either pull it off or put it in as it is, the cardboard will rot away and you can pull the tape out of the compost later. I tip our whole wastepaper bins in the compost, it's better for the environment and it's better for security, no-one can read our personal details.
Lawn clippings are green
Leaves, twigs and chipped twigs, bark etc are brown.
Tea leaves, coffee grounds can go in too. I've found T bags don't rot down so well, so tear them open and just compost the tea leaves.
You can put eggshells in, but i'm not a fan as they don't break down. Same goes for Avocado and peach/plum stones
Manure and bedding from horses, cows, alpacas, chickens, rabbits. Basically anything which eats grass and green stuff.
Used, old and tired compost.
Old plants from the garden.
Soil.

Weeds? Leaves and stalks will go straight in. Personally I would dry out any roots or seed pods (or just the whole lot) and burn them in Winter. If you don't have a chipping or mulching machine then burn dried tough stuff too. Put all the ash into your compost.

Unless it's a rotating composter the basics of it are pile it all in, leave it a month or two and adjust the water content by putting a cover or the lid over to regulate the rain, sun and wind. It needs to be damp or wet. Not dry or dripping/soaking wet.
After that time it needs turning. Everything at the top and the sides needs to go to the bottom or the centre and vice-versa.
If your heap is big enough (1m cube or more) then you can keep an eye on the core temps to tell you what is going on. Mine goes up to 65c then drops off. When it's got down to about 30 in Winter I know it's time to turn it and it'll heat up again. When it stops heating up much after being turned it's about ready. Once it's cooled the compost worms will move in and do their bit.
There are a lot of claims of compost being produced in 6 weeks which I don't really believe or think it's possibly not great compost. Personally I would say it takes about 6 months, but it does depend on conditions, type of composter, ingredients etc.

Once it's complete it should smell earthy and resemble soil.

They are the very brief basics of composting and it's amazing (if not a little sad) how often the modern gardener doesn't do it anymore. 
If you don't then have a go, it's really quite satisfying, has many positives and no negatives. There are loads of guides online and in books on how to do it.

Do your bit for the environment, make your own compost.
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Posts

  • Arthur1Arthur1 Posts: 538
    Our allotment has an area where the tree gangs deposit wood chip. If you search around at the back if these heaps you can find barrow loads of material that has been there for years and is well composted. Like peat.
  • Busy-LizzieBusy-Lizzie Posts: 23,070
    I have 2 compost bins and I put all veg and fruit peelings in them, paper and cardboard, some lawn mowings etc. The contents of the bins shrink down but never seem to rot properly. I have chronic tendonitis in a shoulder and I'm elderly, I'm not strong enough to turn it and anyway the bins are too tall and too narrow at the top to turn it. Does it have to be turned? The bins have doors at the bottom to get the compost out, but it's very difficult to get it out. Aftet 2 years it's not like peat.

    I daren't compost weeds because of the bindweed and ground elder, dandelions and nettles that come in from next door's overgrown  neglected garden. They go into the council bin.
    Dordogne and Norfolk. Clay in Dordogne, sandy in Norfolk.
  • Thank you @MikeOxgreen ... this thread is perfect timing for us! 
    We have just built a 'double compost', outside the polytunnel, using 5 pallets - your advice is a good reminder of what/what not to a add, when to cover etc. We took inspiration from a recent GW magazine and will add the slats at the front as it fills up.
    We have always had compost heaps, but not (for many years) done it 'properly' ... mostly just a few heaps that housed the garden waste and after a few years we found something that was useful. Now that we are retired we have more time for gardening and everything that goes with it.
    For the past 15 years we have also composted the straw etc from mucking out the chickens and goats - it has all gone into an inherited, disused pond ... no turning needed because the chickens do it for us and it is open to the elements - every once in a while we get several small trailer loads of lovely compost for the garden and polytunnel beds. I think perhaps, we need to put some of the muck into the new compost site to help it rot a bit quicker.
    🙂
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 86,869
    edited August 2022
    Goat and chicken manure is a great compost 'activator'. 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,470
    Excellent overview of the composting process Mike.

    I had the best compost ever when I begged a bucket of goat manure from my neighbour in return for a favour. Really turbo-charged it. Sadly, she’s been rather possessive of it ever since, since she realised it would be great for their not-so-secret cannabis farm 😆 

    I also had the worst experience ever when given a load of donkey field droppings, totally weed infested.
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
  • I have 2 compost bins and I put all veg and fruit peelings in them, paper and cardboard, some lawn mowings etc. The contents of the bins shrink down but never seem to rot properly. I have chronic tendonitis in a shoulder and I'm elderly, I'm not strong enough to turn it and anyway the bins are too tall and too narrow at the top to turn it. Does it have to be turned? The bins have doors at the bottom to get the compost out, but it's very difficult to get it out. Aftet 2 years it's not like peat.

    I daren't compost weeds because of the bindweed and ground elder, dandelions and nettles that come in from next door's overgrown neglected garden. They go into the council bin.
    Yes it needs to be turned. Can you get someone to help or perhaps get a rotating composter? If they're the common black 'Dalek' type then you lift the whole thing up and it leaves the compost behind. You can then have a good look at it, take note, make any adjustments and put it back in. You aim to get as much of the uncomposted material which will be around the outsides and top back into the bottom. You would also make one full bin from the two then carry on using the second one with some new stuff.

    It doesn't end up like peat, it should resemble soil.
    As per my post one way of dealing with weeds is to throw them somewhere where they dry out, you then have a yearly fire, incinerate them and put the ash into your compost.
    If you mean you put them in the garden waste bin then they could come back in bagged compost anyhow. I should imagine they try hard to kill off all the seeds and roots, but some people still complain about weeds growing out of bought bagged compost.

    If I lived near you I would pop round and do it for you  :)
  • The 'best' manure comes from llamas ... we kept them for many years; in the US, where they are more common, llama poo is also called 'black gold' ... and it doesn't need to rot! 🙂
  • The 'best' manure comes from llamas ... we kept them for many years; in the US, where they are more common, llama poo is also called 'black gold' ... and it doesn't need to rot! 🙂
    Is it the same for Alpacas? There are quite a few farms of those dotted around the UK now. 
  • LiriodendronLiriodendron Posts: 8,260
    Thanks @MikeOxgreen

    We have no "green bin collection" here and bonfires aren't allowed, so I have to be creative with some non-compostable items like perennial weed roots and seeding weeds, diseased material, and woody stuff too big or not straight enough for the shredder.  The woody stuff goes to thicken the hedge (to keep out the cattle), though I'm planning a "dead hedge" for the future; the real nasties go in a light-proof sack until they turn into sludge which then goes on the compost heap.  Beware just drying out thick roots before adding them to the heap - my dad nailed a large dock root to his shed door for two years, then planted it when it was completely shrivelled.  It grew.

    I find it difficult to balance "greens" and "browns" in my heap.  Too much green in spring and early summer, too much brown from now on...

    I've read conflicting advice on how often to turn your compost, from three times a week (really??  Can it have time to heat up?  And who has time, anyway?)  to "turn it if you can", with the suggestion that it'll still make perfectly good compost, albeit taking longer, if you don't.     
    Since 2019 I've lived in east Clare, in the west of Ireland.
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,047
    I agree with most of what you say @MikeOxgreen , except that I don't do bonfires (no space for one and I don't like the smoke) and I do use my council bin for the stuff that I can't compost on a domestic scale (roots of things like dandelions, the brambles, big root balls with the soil shaken off, woody stuff that's too thick or too twisty to put through my small shredder). There isn't an extra charge so we're paying for it whether we use it or not. Weeds growing from either my own or bought compost just take another trip around the composting cycle.
    I've found that square bins that you can take the whole front out of are much easier when it comes to turning and emptying than the ones that just have a little hatch. Sadly I can't find ones like my original two any more - they have four identical sides that slot (not clip) into each other so it's easy to take the front panel out made of dark brown plastic about 1cm thick so nice and solid and unobtrusive looking, only a few small air holes in them.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
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