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Star Jasmine

Barry-KBarry-K PlymouthPosts: 11
I have 2 jasmines in pots which are about 3 yrs old, over the last couple of months the leaves on one are turning red, there are however new green leaves coming through!

any ideas what the problem could be? Drainage is fine, it’s fed with a tomato feed and PH is about 6-7 (albeit read with a cheap soil reader)

when I watered it tonight lots of the red leaves just dropped off!

They’re on a SE facing wall and the other one looks fine but has always looked the stronger plant tbf! But I put this down to that side being a bit more exposed to the wind coming up the hill we’re on!

any ideas greatly appreciated, I’d be gutted if we lost one of them!

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  • BorderlineBorderline Posts: 4,639
    Leaf drop with evergreen plants happens. It's only a worry if they shed to the point that the plant is almost bare. Yours look fine to me. But I think your containers will not sustain such growth for long. They need deeper and wider containers long term.

    Red leaves happen when the weather has been cold and they are stressed by the weather. During the warmer months, they will improve so long as they are watered well during the warm weather.

    Drainage in containers can be an issue. You should make sure the holes at the base are never blocked and soil is loam-based and not just multi-purpose compost. 
  • Busy-LizzieBusy-Lizzie Posts: 18,472
    Evergreen plants don't keep their leaves forever and Star Jasmine leaves often go red and fall off after the winter. They just don't drop them all in autumn like deciduous trees. If fed and kept watered new leaves will grow.
    Dordogne and Norfolk
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Billericay, EssexPosts: 8,541
    I agree the pot is too small for a plant that gets very big (up to about 40ft x 25ft).
    The red leaves are nothing to worry about - it's nothing to do with pH - it's a form of protection that the plant has in winter in reaction to winter sun. The red leaves usually go back to green as spring progresses, but some may fall.
    I agree with @Borderline re. the compost used and drainage. The container needs to be raised off the patio to allow good drainage or the roots may rot over winter and the plant will die.
    Only feed when the plant is actively growing, but tomato feed is good especially if you can use rainwater too.
    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • Barry-KBarry-K PlymouthPosts: 11
    Thanks for the advice @Borderline, @Busy-Lizzie and @Pete.8 

    Drainage is okay, probably not easy to see in the images but the containers are a good 1cm off the patio so water freely drains when watering.

    Definitely time to think about the size of the pots though! 

    Just the problem of re-potting them and not doing too much damage in the process!!

    Any tips??? Guessing the pots may have to be sacrificed!!!


  • Busy-LizzieBusy-Lizzie Posts: 18,472
    @Obelixx knows a good method, but I csn't remember what she does.
    Dordogne and Norfolk
  • ObelixxObelixx Vendée, Western FrancePosts: 27,594
    I agree your pots are far too small and the one that is not thriving is suffering from exposure.    I bought one of these about 4 years ago and was then given one of a similar size so I potted them up in similar sized pots and grew them on.  18 months ago I planted one in the ground to grow up a new mesh pen we'd built to house some chooks and it is romping away despite being exposed to winter winds.   The other, still in its pot and sheltered for winter against a south facing polytunnel wall did the whole red leaf thing and is not growing as fast.

    As your pots are straight sided it should be easy to get them out and into bigger pots.   Water both pots thoroughmy to moisten the compost and then use an old bread knife to slice up and down against the pot interiors to loosen the roots.   Get a friend to help you lift up the root ball and slide them into new pots.

    Twice as deep would be good so the roots and a bit wider so the roots can grow strongly to support all that foliage and make flowers.   Good quality John Innes no 3 type compost mixed with about 20% MPC will provide a good base but the fertiliser in there will only last 80 or 90 days so they'll still need occasional liquid feeds up to mid July and then feeding every spring with a slow release fertiliser for flowering plants and regular watering throughout the growing period. 
    "We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
  • Barry-KBarry-K PlymouthPosts: 11
    thanks for the info @Obelixx going to try the repotting at the weekend, however finding pots (at a reasonable price) is a tricky search!

    ATM the pots are 32cm3, new pots can't be any deeper than 40cm because the main trunk and branches are all tied in and wrapped around the wire support.

    So wondered if going twice as wide would be enough to get a good healthy root system?

    Say H40cm x L80cm x D30cm effectively tripling the capacity?

  • ObelixxObelixx Vendée, Western FrancePosts: 27,594
    Deeper is better as wider leads to too much surface for evaporation of moisture.  As it's attached to wires, these could be cut to allow the main stem and lower branches to be lifted.   

    If you're handy, you could make something like this with pressure treated wood, lined with black plastic to protect the wood and with drainage holes at the base.



    This is one @Fairygirl made for her garden.   You can also find good, tall, square plastic pots for not too much money but yes, metal and ceramic pots are expensive.
    "We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
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