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Front Garden/Driveway - From scratch

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  • LoxleyLoxley Posts: 5,063
    I wouldn't bother with a soil testing kit, just dig some up and have a look/feel. It's fairly easy to determine if it's sandy/loamy/clay etc, and whether it needs any organic matter digging in or not. As for pH you should be able to make an assumption based on where you are in the country, and what your neighbours are growing. (That said, owing to the presence of brick walls with mortar, and hardcore under the paving, you're probably going to be on the alkaline side. This is only really an issue if you are desperate to grow Azaleas etc...)
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 50,322
    Definitely spend some time and money on the soil. It won't be up to much if it's been covered for any length of time.
    That will pay dividends, as it means plants will get off to a much better start. 
    The fence will create shade when it's such a narrow border, and being north facing, so you'll have to bear that in mind with choices. It won't get a lot of sun, apart from a little bit from spring through summer in the part nearest the entrance. The opposite for the other side - south facing, although it will also have some shade nearer the house, because of the house itself.
    It also depends on whether you want something to see all year round, or if that isn't necessary.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 9,983
    You can get a general idea of your soil type and pH from here
    http://www.landis.org.uk/soilscapes/
    Click Search and enter your postcode

    If you are on clay (as I am) and it's really heavy I found the best stuff is composted bark fines (as recommended by the RHS) I was able to plant up on quite heavy clay after 6 months, but any organic matter will work wonders
    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • ChilliBobChilliBob Posts: 84
    Okay cool, and there was me looking forward to geeking out with a ph testing kit! 

    Excuse my ignorance, but by organic matter, what do you mean? And how would I determine if it's required or not?

    To answer the other posters question, style, not sure how to answer that... I suppose floral, chilled out, not 'showey' or bling!........ plants and flowers which spring to mind which I know of:

    Salvia (especially hot lips!)
    Verbena bonariensis
    Things with berries (yeah, vague I know! - I'm learning!)
    Cherry blossom
    Heather
    Lavender
    Snakeshead lilly
    Buddleia
    Rosemary 
    Wax flower

    We will have some time to tend to this, so it doesn't need to be maintenance free, but with a very active 4 year old, and a new baby due in July we won't be able to take on something high maintenance.

    So many front gardens near me seem to basically just be hedges or green foliage - I'm keen to avoid that, if I had my way everything would have some kind of flowers, berries or at least different coloured foliage!

    As this is something we will see all year round day in day out, I'd say:

    1. Stuff which has 'interest' for a large part of the year - not something which flowers for two weeks then sits there green for the whole time!
    2. Scented stuff near the door is cool - there's some white flower we have which smells divine which I'll take a picture of for an ID - it's a favourite
    3. Some stuff which delivers some rapid gratification, alongside some stuff which is for the more patient gardener - we intend to be here for a while :smile:

    I think on the bigger border the area near the front which is a fairly large sweeping curve is pretty key to getting right, height and spread wise. I had suggested a Christmas tree, but my wife vetoed me (we love Christmas, it's when we met, Christmas trees look nice!)

     


  • ChilliBobChilliBob Posts: 84
    Pete.8 said:
    You can get a general idea of your soil type and pH from here
    http://www.landis.org.uk/soilscapes/
    Click Search and enter your postcode

    If you are on clay (as I am) and it's really heavy I found the best stuff is composted bark fines (as recommended by the RHS) I was able to plant up on quite heavy clay after 6 months, but any organic matter will work wonders
    Cheers, So here's my info, I'm only about 20 mins away from you Pete, I thought mine would say clay too:

    Soilscape 22:
    Loamy soils with naturally high groundwater
    Texture:
    Loamy
    Coverage:
    England: 1.7%    Wales: 0.1%
    England & Wales: 1.5%
    Selected area:
    90.5km2
    Drainage:
    Naturally wet

    Fertility:
    Low

    Habitats:
    Wet acid meadows and woodland
    Landcover:
    Arable grassland and woodland
    Carbon:
    Low
    Drains to:
    Local shallow groundwater
    Water protection:
    Soils are mostly drained. Shallow groundwater and marginal ditches to most fields mean that the water resource is vulnerable to pollution from nutrients, pesticides and wastes applied to the land
    General cropping:
    Most land is used for arable and root cropping but this is replaced by grass where soils are excessively stony or too wet. Although subject to groundwater inundation in the subsoil, these soils can be droughty in the summer
  • ChilliBobChilliBob Posts: 84
    Fairygirl said:
    Definitely spend some time and money on the soil. It won't be up to much if it's been covered for any length of time.
    That will pay dividends, as it means plants will get off to a much better start. 
    The fence will create shade when it's such a narrow border, and being north facing, so you'll have to bear that in mind with choices. It won't get a lot of sun, apart from a little bit from spring through summer in the part nearest the entrance. The opposite for the other side - south facing, although it will also have some shade nearer the house, because of the house itself.
    It also depends on whether you want something to see all year round, or if that isn't necessary.  :)
    I had thought that - I suspect it's been covered for many years. Last thing I want to do is spend a tonne of money and find everything does terribly because I'm basically putting plants into terrible soil! Something all, or most of the year round would be good. Interesting, I hadn't considered the different sides. If I have understood you correctly, and given the right info(!), I think this means: 1. The 'main' border is going to do better 2. The larger curved part furthest away from the house will do the best 3. The border we won't see much from the house will need careful plant selection as it's probably not very sunny most of the time Seems the first steps are to see what I'm dealing with soil wise, before *buying* any plants, however, research and choosing can commence - especially when it's raining and cold outside!
  • ChilliBobChilliBob Posts: 84

    This is an example of something we like (happened to also be in our wedding flowers too), I can't remember what it is though, my wife got it from somewhere.

    And these are the flowers we inherited in a border near the shed, which I *love* they look amazing and smell even better! 

  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 50,322
    The shrub is a skimmia and will do well in that north facing border. They can spread a bit, but it'll take a while.
    Don't be worried about shady aspects either. Hundreds of plants which like it.
    Is your north facing border [with the curved bit] the one you see most from the house?
    If so, a small specimen tree in that corner would be nice. Bulbs underneath for spring. Plenty of choices which will suit. 
     
    It's a small space generally, so picking a few plants and repeating them is always good, and a very standard way of creating a cohesive design. Any perennials can have bulbs incorporated - whether on the sunnier side or the shady one. That immediately gives a continuity through the first part of the year. 
    You don't have a lot of room for bigger shrubs, because they'll impact the driveway, but there are some [like the skimmia] which don't get enormous, and will be fine. 
    Berrying shrubs and plants help to extend the season too. Many are thorny, so you may not wnt those,  but Cotoneasters aren't, and are great for flowers and berries, and therefore pollinators and birds.
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • ChilliBobChilliBob Posts: 84
    Okay so this sounds silly, so I'll give all info.. 

    Looking out from the house the compass reads East. Standing where the larger border with the curve is, it obviously depends if I look up or down the road as to whether its North or East facing!

    What's the name of the white shrub? 
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 50,322
    If it's east looking out from your house, the border on the right faces north. The corner section is technically west facing, but because it's a corner, with nothing around it to affect light or shade, you have a little bit of everything. The other border is south facing.

    The areas nearest the house will get very little sun, and are also likely to be drier.

    The amount of shade or sun any site gets is also dependent on what else is around it that can affect that. There doesn't seem to be much there though, so that won't change much in terms of planting. Many plants are tolerant of varying sites  :)

    I don't know what the white plant is - would maybe need a photo from further out, but I don't recognise it.
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
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