Forum home Tools and techniques

Honda FG 110 tiller

What ho one and all,

I have a Honda FG110 tiller with all the bits and bobs.  It has been somewhat difficult to start but when it runs, it  runs well.  Yesterday, I could not get it to start at all so dismantled the carb; but that made virtually no difference.

It did actually start a few times but cut out after around 2 seconds!

On FleaBay, I can buy either carb repair kits, or for about the same price, a whole new (Chinese made) carb.

So my question, is it better to repair the original carb or is a Chinese made replacement likely to be a better deal?

Likewise with the ignition coil.  There are inexpensive and expensive versions.  I would assume that the expensive versions are just putting more money in their FleaBay account, but what do I know?

What is the recommended way forward?

Thanks and toodle pip



  • steephillsteephill Posts: 2,672
    I would suggest get the genuine repair kit ( Walbro carb?). There are also third party repair kits available slightly cheaper.  It is probably the diaphram that is gone but be sure to clean out all jets.
  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 112
    Bought a compatible Walbro carb repair kit, fitted all the bits and bobs and still have some left over!  New spark plug and ignition coil.  Difficult to start but ran well.  Leave for 5 mins and almost impossible to start.

    Tried again the following morning and absolutely nothing.  Cleaned the carb again, blow through all the jets and still zilch.  There is a good spark.

    Not sure how to 'tune' the carb as there does not appear to be any adjustment screws.  Since it did run and allowed me to scarify the grass, it cannot be too bad but what is the next step if it will not start?
  • steephillsteephill Posts: 2,672
    A couple of suggestions. Does the priming bulb work properly? i.e. can you see if it pushes fuel into the supply pipe? Are you using the choke to help with starting?
  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 112
    Yes and yes. In fact, the priming bulb feels so much better than it did before I replaced the gaskets and diaphragms.  Previously, it was pumping a lot of air and not returning to full at all.  Now, no air and returns to full within seconds.

    One thing I did notice; the cylinder with the hole that controls the speed, when the throttle is closed, has only a small part of the hole showing, but full throttle pull shows only around 25% of the hole open.  Is that correct?  Or should it be more open?  If more, there is no further adjustments as the throttle lever hits the screw support.
  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 112
    Oh no, not him again!!!!

    I am hardy a small carburettor expert but I have been trying again today to get the FG110 running and still no luck.

    Searching the net, I found this video which has a very similar carb  .  At the 4:30 minute mark, he removes the adjustment screw, which is interesting as mine does not have this.  Consequently, I cannot see how to adjust the carb.

    But I am now wondering if the timing has gone AWOL.  Can't imagine how that could happen, but there is absolutely no sign of it even trying to start.  As it was running after I replaced all the carb bits and bobs, I can only assume the carb is OK, which leaves the timing.

    How could the timing throw itself out of wack?  Is there a way to check and if so, how?

    Many thanks ,

    Toodle pip


  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 112
    Somewhat running out of ideas.

    Replace all the bits and bobs from a carb repair kit and cleaned out all the micro-holes;  will not start.

    Replaced the spark plug and ignition coil; will not start.

    New carb; almost starts but stalling after around 2 seconds, then will no longer start.

    What next?  Refuse to take it to a Honda stealer and be ripped of for a very simple fix.  Could the timing be causing a problem and is there a simple way to check? 
  • ColinAColinA Posts: 369
    If crankshaft key has fractured this is the only thing that affects the timing, have you checked the valve clearance, if too tight valves could be held open loosing compression, it may also be worthwhile taking the carb to a dealer for a sonic bath clean
  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 112
    Thanks for your reply.

    No I did not check the valve clearance but when i had the valve cover off, I did check that the camshaft and valves all move.  The belt looks fine and the piston is doing what it should (up and down.)

    I have fitted a new carb and still zilch, apart from almost trying to run for around 3 seconds.  Also checked the exhaust and all hunky dory.  Finger over the spark plug port and the exhaust and there is compression although I am surprised how little it seems.  thought I would not be able to hold a finger over the spark port but there is not much pressure.

    When I tried starting it again, the back-lash almost broke my wrist.  Don't know why checking the exhaust and  spark port would cause the major compression increase?  Now, it is very difficult to pull.

    What would cause the crank key to fracture?

    As for the carb, I did put the original in my ultra-sonic cleaner but that made no difference.

    The carb repair kit came with a replacement tank filter which I installed but it is larger than the original.  Surely this cannot be an issue?  And although I have dismantled and cleaned the tank filler cap, I cannot see any small hole to allow air in.  After X attempts at starting, and then releasing the filler cap, there is a slight 'puff' is inflowing air, so maybe a vacuum in the tank is prevent fuel flowing?

    The engine is not complex enough to be this difficult!
  • ColinAColinA Posts: 369
    Certainly tank vacuuming would cause fuel starvation, If the engine pulls over ok with no spark plug in but then is extremely tight with the plug in it points to a fault on the decompressor, I would also pull off the flywheel and check the crankshaft key has not sheared
  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 112
    Thanks.  Don't know if I made a minor mistake but the gasket kit came with a new fuel tank filter, which I have fitted.  But it is the larger one, not the smallish, black plastic version.  Don't imagine that can make much difference but what do I know?
    I understand fuel starvation but where is the 'hole' in the tank top?  I cannot see any evidence of one.  "Fault on the decompressor" - what does this mean?  Finally , to access the crankshaft key, presumably, the engine needs to basically be dismantled?
Sign In or Register to comment.