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Lawn is Yellow when cut, why?

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  • JennyJJennyJ DoncasterPosts: 7,431
    Looking good! If you do decide to go for really short next year, reduce the height gradually over several cuts so that you only take off a little at a time.
  • OffshoreOffshore Posts: 14
    I have just been looking at this  seed mix - interesting thread for me!
  • OffshoreOffshore Posts: 14
    Perki said:
    well there is nothing wrong with the seed cultivars but for Rossinante strong creeping fescue is a cheap filler variety which isn't great for cutting very short. The rest should be fine cut short easily shorter than what your lawn mower can cut at. 

    I looked at the post earlier today on the phone and I didn't think perennial rye grass was present with the needle like leaf which is fescue grass. New strains of dwarf perennials rye grass are very good and will tolerate mowing down to 4mm, more and more sports golf - tennis ( wimbledon 100% rye grass ) etc are using dwarf perennial rye grass , my own lawn is approx 60% Dwarf rye grass, I looked at the mix my self on ebay you've bought last year before seeding my own lawn but preferred the colour of rye grass and it harder wearing and the strong creeping fescue put me off. 

    Seen as you lawn is mostly fescue grass its very susceptible to red thread especially if the weather is warm and wet, the bottom picture the grass to the right looks like its had red thread,  to ID red thread it has a pinky ting on the tips of the leaf and then turns straw like colour over a few weeks. they no way of combating it other than giving the lawn a High nitrogen feed its getting late to be using nitrogen feeds so be quick . Red thread is a soil borne fungi.

    Another one for fescue grass it prefers Acidic soil , have you checked your PH of the soil. Iron sulphate will lower the PH  and toughen up the grass for winter. 

    How sharp are your blades on the mower ? its not tearing the grass is it ? 
     
    I be tempted to give it a light rake over in a few weeks time,  I wouldn't mulch personally but the left over cutting will feed the grass but possibly increase thatch levels.  

    If it were my lawn feed now  - light rake over in a 2-3weeks time then possible folk / hollow tine over and top dress with sandy top dressing if drainage is a problem or do it anyway it helps take nutrients / air down to the root system and helps with any compaction and other benefits - autumn feed mid october.  Raise the cutting height for now its to late in the season to cut grass very short its need to photosynthesis and take in as much energy as possible. 

    Having a top quality lawns is very hard work and very time consuming, I spend far to many hours and my own lawn and its half the size of yours . General rule shorter you mow more work is involved 

    Do you have any thoughts on the Platinum Pro mix with Rye:
    25% Perennial Ryegrass 
    10% Turf Tetraploid Ryegrass 
    45% Strong Creeping Red Fescue 
    10% Chewings Fescue 
    10% Slender Creeping Red Fescue 

    I am between that and the lawnsmith Classic mix:
    • 30% Dwarf perennial rye grass
    • 25% Strong creeping red fescue
    • 15% Chewings fescue
    • 10% Slender creeping red fescue
    • 15% Smooth stalked meadow grass
    • 5% Bent grass
    I have read that Bent grass is good in a mix to provide gap filling and longevity - but there is so much contradictory advice it can get confusing! Thanks for any help.
  • PerkiPerki Rossendale - LancashirePosts: 2,259
    Offshore said:
    Perki said:
    well there is nothing wrong with the seed cultivars but for Rossinante strong creeping fescue is a cheap filler variety which isn't great for cutting very short. The rest should be fine cut short easily shorter than what your lawn mower can cut at. 

    I looked at the post earlier today on the phone and I didn't think perennial rye grass was present with the needle like leaf which is fescue grass. New strains of dwarf perennials rye grass are very good and will tolerate mowing down to 4mm, more and more sports golf - tennis ( wimbledon 100% rye grass ) etc are using dwarf perennial rye grass , my own lawn is approx 60% Dwarf rye grass, I looked at the mix my self on ebay you've bought last year before seeding my own lawn but preferred the colour of rye grass and it harder wearing and the strong creeping fescue put me off. 

    Seen as you lawn is mostly fescue grass its very susceptible to red thread especially if the weather is warm and wet, the bottom picture the grass to the right looks like its had red thread,  to ID red thread it has a pinky ting on the tips of the leaf and then turns straw like colour over a few weeks. they no way of combating it other than giving the lawn a High nitrogen feed its getting late to be using nitrogen feeds so be quick . Red thread is a soil borne fungi.

    Another one for fescue grass it prefers Acidic soil , have you checked your PH of the soil. Iron sulphate will lower the PH  and toughen up the grass for winter. 

    How sharp are your blades on the mower ? its not tearing the grass is it ? 
     
    I be tempted to give it a light rake over in a few weeks time,  I wouldn't mulch personally but the left over cutting will feed the grass but possibly increase thatch levels.  

    If it were my lawn feed now  - light rake over in a 2-3weeks time then possible folk / hollow tine over and top dress with sandy top dressing if drainage is a problem or do it anyway it helps take nutrients / air down to the root system and helps with any compaction and other benefits - autumn feed mid october.  Raise the cutting height for now its to late in the season to cut grass very short its need to photosynthesis and take in as much energy as possible. 

    Having a top quality lawns is very hard work and very time consuming, I spend far to many hours and my own lawn and its half the size of yours . General rule shorter you mow more work is involved 

    Do you have any thoughts on the Platinum Pro mix with Rye:
    25% Perennial Ryegrass 
    10% Turf Tetraploid Ryegrass 
    45% Strong Creeping Red Fescue 
    10% Chewings Fescue 
    10% Slender Creeping Red Fescue 

    I am between that and the lawnsmith Classic mix:
    • 30% Dwarf perennial rye grass
    • 25% Strong creeping red fescue
    • 15% Chewings fescue
    • 10% Slender creeping red fescue
    • 15% Smooth stalked meadow grass
    • 5% Bent grass
    I have read that Bent grass is good in a mix to provide gap filling and longevity - but there is so much contradictory advice it can get confusing! Thanks for any help.
    Depends on what the lawn is far ?

    Turf Tetraploid are a newish cultivar more vigorous / deeper rooting than ordinary dwarf rye grass manly used for sports fields probably better than dwarf rye in drier conditions , I believe it doesn't like being cut short much short than a inch / 25mm. 

    Personally I'd go with the Lawn smith mix for a ordinary lawn with good light, the large % of strong creeping fescue puts me off the A1 mix but if the site is difficult like in shade or on a slope I'd be tempted with the A1 mix . 

    Bent grass is long lived but slow to establish,  I wouldn't get to hung up on bent grass unless you are going for a putty green or ornamental lawn .   

  • Arthur1Arthur1 Posts: 515
    Just to add, you should cut little and often, never removing more than 1/3 of the growth. Short fine turf  as seen on a golf green  is enormously hard work, often requiring daily mowing.
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