Making glyphosate paste?

Adstid

Hi everyone

Many of the beds in our garden have serious infestations of bindweed and (in a few areas) ground elder too. The previous owners had rather "let things slide" in their last few years here. I am trying to beat back the tide any way I can, but - with 3 acres of formal gardens to get on top of - any strategy is going to have to involve glyphosate, I feel.

We have sprayed a couple of times and made good progress in my rose garden; in other areas we have emptied out sections of border, cleaned roots, picked over the soil and replanted - but in some areas it's just not practical to do either of those. I need to kill the bindweed in and around existing plants. I have tried the glyphosate gel but found it difficult to apply. I read in one of Beth Chatto's books that she painted glyphosate on in the form of a paste, but looking online everyone seems to be saying "I am no longer allowed to recommend mixing with wallpaper paste" etc. Does anyone know why that would be? It is concerns that too much would be applied? I don't want to do it if it's not good practice, but I am longing to win this battle and, like Beth Chatto, be able to say that "I haven't seen a bit in years".

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Pete.8

I don't know, but it may be something along the lines of because glyphosphate in its liquid form is toxic to aquatic life -  if you mix up some paste and have some left over there may be a temptation to wash it down the drain and it ends up in a river at some point.
It's an interesting idea - I've had bindweed in my garden forever and this time of year, I can see it but can't get to it without trampling on something

Hostafan1

all of these products must be used " following the manufacturers' instructions" Making a paste isn't allowed, nor is injecting it neat into plants ( but plenty do )

Topbird

I don't know why that would be Adstid - it seemed to be the standard advice a few years ago. Maybe people were being a bit dense and getting the stuff all over their hands or dripping it onto the soil or other plants. Maybe they were making the mixes unnecessarily strong and / or disposing of surplus product into the drains. Who knows - some people don't have the brains...

Anyway - if it's mainly bindweed that you are having problems with - another tip is to train the weed up bamboo canes or hazel poles. When it has reached a decent height (say 4 -5'), untangle it (without breaking the stems), stuff the foliage into a plastic bag and then squirt regular strength glyphosate into the bag to wet the foliage. Put a tie round the neck of the bag to stop any dripping out or critters getting in - and leave for the glyphosate to take effect (may be 2 - 3 weeks)

Expect to be shot down in flames by those who don't want anybody using glyphosate under any circumstances.

I'm with you on this one. There are times and places when a careful application of the correct concentration of glyphosate ensuring no run-off into drains and water courses is the only realistic option to winning the battle. I do it once a year on the shingle driveway when regular hoeing / weeding no longer keeps on top of the job.

Hostafan1

Ditto @Topbird.
I've said this often, but I once took over a garden with a 15 year old yew hedge overun with bindweed. CAREFULLY using glyphosate, I got rid of it in under 3 years.
I've asked repeatedly how the anti "chemical" advocates would have achieved the same outcome, to no avail.

Fire

Several on this forum have recommended mixing up a jar or bucket and leaving leaves / threads of bindweed in the bucket (overnight?). It seems to work very well if you are working on a large scale and other plants wouldn't touch it. Be careful if cats, foxes, badgers roam about are liable to knock the container.

The gel works really well for me. I put a fair amount on the back of many leaves. The plant does take 1-3 months to die right back. Don't put the get on before rain. I should think a paste would work ok, but might drop onto other plants.

Fairygirl

I'd echo the others too. If you have a  large area to deal with, and don't have a spare two hundred folk to help, it's necessary to get a handle on it. 
Literally - if you follow Topbird's method 
It certainly seems to work, but again, you'd possibly need some help to get a grip of it all. Perhaps dealing with one area thoroughly, while chopping/trimming off the rest, the best you can, in other areas until you can get to them. 
I wonder if Fire's bucket  method would be good if you had a bucket with a lid, or could sink the bucket into the ground a bit, to stop it tipping? 
I've been lucky - never had it in any garden I've had. 

fidgetbones

It is due to the EU. It is not certified so you can't do it.

I am not allowed to tell you that you mix the solution up to normal strength and then add a sachet of wallpaper paste to thicken it.

I  also can't advise you to  put rubber gloves on, then fabric gloves on top. Dip hands in gel and stroke leaves you want to get rid of.

Topbird

Fidget - you naughty girl you -  

Fire

I had a bit of overlap above with Topbird, but I think we are advocating the same thing.

Dovefromabove

When I have needed to I have done exactly as Fidget quotes above and it has worked well ... you have to be sensible and responsible and use your head ... as with most other things in life.

Consider carefully how you're going to dispose of any surplus, bearing in mind that it is harmful to aquatic life.