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Whats wrong with my Clematis?

gary 803gary 803 Posts: 55
in Problem solving
Had these about a month now two of them are being eaten by something and the smallest just wont grow compared to the others. They are watered twice a day, (even though on a forum I read do not get the leaves wet)! So when it rains do I run out with an umbrella?!
They are trained to go up the string for now until I can get some sort of trellis for them Any advice please?
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  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 29,138
    Starvation and thirst.    You have them in shallow window box looking pots.   Clematis are hungry, thirsty plants and like to get their thick, fleshy roots down deep so you either need to give them a big pot each - 60cms deep and wide and filled with good compost such as John Innes no 3 - or else get them in the ground in a good, deep hole, at least a foot/30cms away from that wall as that will dry the soil.  

    When you do re-plant, water them well first and then bury them 3 to 4 inches (10cms) deeper than they were before as this encourage extra stems to form.   Water them well afterwards and keep watered until new growth starts.  If they're to stay in pots, they need watering every day in hot weather and feeding once a week with liquid tomato food. 
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 83,851
    I'm afraid those containers are far too small and way too shallow for clematis ... they won't be at all happy there.

    They need the opportunity to get their roots down deep. 

    What sort of compost have you planted them in?

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • gary 803gary 803 Posts: 55
    Verve peat free multipurpose compost I will get some larger pots.
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 83,851
    edited June 2018
    What varieties are your clematis?   Some varieties are ok in containers if they're big enough and have the right compost and conditions.  Some varieties will never do well in containers.  

    What is underneath that gravel?   Can you remove it and dig a nice wide border and incorporate lots of manure and compost?   They'll do much better like that.   They also need to be further apart ... how far depends on what types they are. 

    @Richard Hodson  is the holder of a National Collection of clematis and extremely knowledgeable ... hopefully he'll see your post and give some more advice.

    In the meantime, when you get your (much much larger) containers you need to buy some John Innes No 3 loam-based potting compost and mix it at a ratio of approx 
    3 parts JI No 3 and 1 part Verve ........... the multi-purpose composts are not suitable on their own for planting clematis.

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • gary 803gary 803 Posts: 55
    they are verve clematis warszwaska nike, rouge cardinal, the president, nelly moser.

  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 29,138
    Those will all prefer to be in the ground but if you can't do that yet, big pots will at least give them a chance to thrive.  If you intend to keep them against that wall I suggest you invest in some vine eyes and wire - DIY store - and make a framework of stretched, horizontal wires at 30cm intervals up the wall so you can train the clematis up it.   Space them at least a metre apart to give them head room.



    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
  • gary 803gary 803 Posts: 55
    String no good for now?

  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 29,138
    Too feeble for a clem when it gets going.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
  • gary 803gary 803 Posts: 55
    Going to get some large deep pots for now until i can get the garden dug out. Is it ok to use Rose Clear (below) to get rid of whatever is eating the leaves?


    Description

    Systemic Fungicide and Insecticide ideal for Roses, other Flowering and Ornamental Plants

    Systemic insecticide and fungicide with 3 in 1 action

    Kills aphids

    Controls blackspot, powdery mildew and rust

    Protects for up to 21 days to prevent further attacks

    Kills: Aphids (greenfly and blackfly) within 24hrs.
    Fights: Existing infections of blackspot, powdery mildew and rust.
    Protects: Plants against further infestations of aphid and disease attack, including new growth.
    For best control of plant disease spray at first signs of disease and continue spraying regularly for the rest of the season.

    Protects for up to 21 days to prevent further attacks*
    *With a programme of 5 applications, protection can last up to 4 months (5 months against blackspot and rust on roses).

    Will also get some sort of trellis trouble is getting it fixed to the brick wall without a drill!

    Thanks to all for your help.

  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 29,138
    I never use sprays against insects as they kill the good guys too.  Healthy plants will fight them off and predators will come along and eat them anyway.

    Spend your money on a drill or borrow one.   Stretched wires are longer lasting and cheaper than trellis and trellis needs to be fixed to battens to allow air to circulate so you'll need to drill anyway.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
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