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Lawn advice please.

2oaktrees2oaktrees West Midlands Posts: 160
I want to apply some well rotted manure onto my lawn to give it a boost. The grass is patchy and brown in places. We have clay soil and the ground appears hard and dry. 

Does anyone have have any ideas how best to spread the manure please? We have a large area to cover. 

Thank you. 


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Posts

  • BorderlineBorderline Posts: 4,632
    I don't recommend it for lawns. Most lawns only really need levelling and spiking to allow water down into the roots. The other action that is needed is scarifying in the spring and autumn months to lift and remove thatch that has built up over months of mowing. By doing that, you allow the grass blades to grow and breath and therefore making it stronger.

    If your soil is clay and gets quite dry and compacted in the summer, get hold of top soil and sieve it, then brush it into your lawn either in spring or autumn when the soil is still moist but not totally wet. It will build up a new level to keep the top-most surface drier. 
  • 2oaktrees2oaktrees West Midlands Posts: 160
    Thank you @Borderline! Really useful advice there. I’ll try that instead. 

    Thank you for your time   :)
  • glasgowdanglasgowdan Posts: 632
    Get a local lawn company (not a franchise) to hollow tine aerate the lawn first. 
  • The user and all related content has been deleted.
  • Get a local lawn company (not a franchise) to hollow tine aerate the lawn first. 
    In addition, apply, in spring, and mid summer. A 30g/m2 moss, weed & feed fertilizer/granular nutrient. To kick-start the new season growth. After, de thatching, (Scarification), & aeration, (Forking To Let oxygen down to sub root layer) of the lawn.

    This in time, also levels the lawn, and ex mole hills, into the bargain. The first "2-3 cut" of the new season lawn, (Spring season) should be 35-45mm /4.5cm in height. This accordingly, allows stronger root matrix growth, later in the season. Supporting a greener healthier lawn during the summer, taking up the nutrient of spring feed. Rolling the lawn, can be beneficial.

    After a wet cold winters vernification period. Off late, and a wet spring. The lawn substrate, upto 8cm depth or more.  Consequently, expands over the winter, goes a bit lumpy !. it expands after the previous seasons rolling, and compaction. From pedestrian, & lawn mower traffic, from self-propelled rear mower rollers.

    Such as this trusted, "lawn Tractor", with rear roller. A classic professional mower, a 1993, 'Honda HR194 "QX", X is for rear roller, self propelled, with Roto Stop Blade Clutch. I have just restored a pair, that where relatively un-used. Over the 25yrs since first manufactured in Tokyo Papan, (HONDA OEM). Honda HR 194  (Grass Cutter). As it is only called a mower, if it has "Cylinder or Drum Cutters". Below are grasscutters.
    Light aluminum deck. Shotblasted, as with all metal components.
    Etch undercoated, 2 coats hammerite smooth silver.


    Non electric start version HR194.  25yrs on. Still many parts are available foe this model.

    Rear roller Q Type gearbox, skid pan, no hole in bottom from yrs of use without service.

    There no grasscutter i know. That lasts 25yrs, and feels like it's part of you, when used.
  • IanC63 said:
    Mods.. just a thought, but as there are (or at least seem to be) many posts about lawns, lawn problems etc etc, maybe a seperate category would be an idea to avoid duplication and have all the info in one place.

    With sub-section on mowers & grasscutter problems ! should one fail to start ? often something simple..... ask the Qs, you never know.
  • glasgowdanglasgowdan Posts: 632
    Nigel... I'm not a fan of.combined weed feed and moss. They can leave lawns patchy and always fail to take care of all the weeds. Their Fe and N content are often higher than necessary, which can lead to other long term issues such as excess thatch. 


  • Nigel... I'm not a fan of.combined weed feed and moss. They can leave lawns patchy and always fail to take care of all the weeds. Their Fe and N content are often higher than necessary, which can lead to other long term issues such as excess thatch. 



    Glasgo, thanks for input, i use it for feed and moss, to keep back the dandelion, daisy, plantain, common mouse ear, white clover, black medic and lessor trefoil, all systemically controlled with one application of "Verdone Extra", over the lawn, in spring when the un wanted lawn invaders begin to grow, most are anemophylic, or anemophilous, (Seeds & pollen, spread by wind). Verdone application, just once a year, as resides, and is systemic herbicide...... i dont suffer from thatch, as the Honda high speed rotary sucks out most of the debris, from winter etc. No grass clippings are left in lawn, all go in the 85Ltr grass box on the HR194....

  • YviestevieYviestevie Kingswinford, West MidlandsPosts: 6,668
    I use a franchise company and they are very good value for money.  I like a lawn not grass and they have transformed mine.  I don't have to buy any products and can spend my time on my flowers, cuttings and seed sowing. 

    Hi from Kingswinford in the West Midlands
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