Dying Privet Hedge (PHOTOS ATTACHED)

Hi all,
I have a 90ft Privet hedge on boths sides of my back garden. I believe it was planted in the 1920’s when my house was built like all other neighbouring houses.
Unfortunately, for 15 years or so it has been dying back on both sides a few feet each year. No other types of vegetation have been affected.
The dying process as follows: leaves begin to discolour to a purple/red, fall off and then the bark peels with black blotches, then that section of the hedge dies, eventually you can pull the whole trunks out of the ground very easily.
I have now lost around 50% of my Privet hedge and want to avoid losing the rest. I live in a high flooding area which is marshland which causes my garden to take until late spring to become not boggy. (Photo below of neighbour’s garden showing how waterlogged it can get)
Please find numerous photos below giving you an insight into my Privet hedge.
I look forward to hearing any feedback or suggestions to saving this Privet Hedge.
Many thanks,
Alex





















I have a 90ft Privet hedge on boths sides of my back garden. I believe it was planted in the 1920’s when my house was built like all other neighbouring houses.
Unfortunately, for 15 years or so it has been dying back on both sides a few feet each year. No other types of vegetation have been affected.
The dying process as follows: leaves begin to discolour to a purple/red, fall off and then the bark peels with black blotches, then that section of the hedge dies, eventually you can pull the whole trunks out of the ground very easily.
I have now lost around 50% of my Privet hedge and want to avoid losing the rest. I live in a high flooding area which is marshland which causes my garden to take until late spring to become not boggy. (Photo below of neighbour’s garden showing how waterlogged it can get)
Please find numerous photos below giving you an insight into my Privet hedge.
I look forward to hearing any feedback or suggestions to saving this Privet Hedge.
Many thanks,
Alex





















0
Posts
Due its age. The constant shearing will eventually expose the shrub to wood. In extreme situations like drought and very cold windy weather, the wood can start dying back. Many of the photos are of dead wood. Prune them back to branches that look more healthy looking. The healthier branches will eventually grow to smother those areas.
Make sure you collect dead leaves and remove promptly around the base to avoid the cycle of re-infection. Lay a thick layer of compost or bark chip. In the really large gaps, you can plant some young plants and they will quickly cover the large gaps in about two years.
Honey fungus can grow from dead trees stumps and the roots. Cherry trees are prone to it as well. Do you have either in your garden?
There was a product available for treating honey fungus but it was banned in recent years, however it has been rebranded as a patio cleaner, but apparently it is the exact same product. When I remember its name (I have a bottle of it in the garage) I'll let you know.
Honey Fungus - Armillaria mellea
As from 25th July 2003, Armillatox has become 'Armillatox Soap Based Outdoor Cleaner' so taking it out of the pesticides regulations - the formulation remains the same.
Armillatox cannot be claimed as a Honey Fungus treatment but because it is exactly the same formulation as it was in the days when it was called a Honey Fungus treatment (in fact, Armillatox was invented for this purposes - hence the name) that as a side effect of using the chemical as a soap based garden cleaner, Honey Fungus can be treated.
By treating the lower trunk of a healthy tree with a 20:1 solution of Armillatox and water, a tree or shrub can be inoculated against the 'bootlace' Rhizomes reaching your trees, the Rhizomorphs will surface, sporolate and send the resulting mycelia in search of dead and decaying wood.
It used to look like this...