Giant cyclamen - all leaves no flowers

I have several giant cyclamen. They put on a great flush of huge and healthy leaves but few flowers. Any ideas to help?

Also, certain cyclamen, they say, are not frost hardy, which is seems odd as they are widely sold as outside winter plants. My giants have just been frosted in the last few days and I'm bringing them inside. Any thoughts on how to tell the hardy cyclamen types?

Many thanks


  • nutcutletnutcutlet Posts: 24,050

    The hardy ones are generally sold with their proper names. C hederifolium and C. coum for 2.

    Winter bedding cyclamen are C. persica I think (though not sure). Some people keep these alive but they wouldn't do in many gardens

    Any with large bright coloured flowers and have leaves now, are not hardy. 

  • BorderlineBorderline Posts: 1,299

    Sounds like you have the Cyclamen Persicum. Sometimes called florist Cyclamen. They are not hardy but you are right, many places are selling it as if they are hardy. In reality, they are far more hardier if you keep them right up against a wall. That keeps frost off them. I have grown them as window box displays and they do well because they don't want water. The cold weather slows their growth so in reality, they stay much the same for months. Keep them away from wet weather, and they should be fine. The leaves are very decorative and remains attractive even though not in flower. 

  • Firefly∆Firefly∆ Posts: 290

    Thank you both. I will try putting it up against a wall.

    Any thoughts on why I'm getting all leaves and few flowers? Did I put the wrong growing medium in at some point?

  • BorderlineBorderline Posts: 1,299

    Did you buy them this year? If so, did you buy them already in flower? Sometimes, it's flowered so early, you have missed the first main flush. If the conditions suit, they will flower again when the weather is milder. If you bought them this year without flowers, they may flower soon, provided the weather stays mild and doesn't get too chilly. Same with Cyclamens that may have over-wintered from last year. 

    Keep them tucked under an eave or raise the container off the floor if you are planting them in a pot/trough on the ground. They need good drainage and not left in the open where rain water can drown them. If you know there will be prolonged frosty nights, it's best to move them inside or in a cool greenhouse. But, if you plant them in pots against a wall, it should be fine. 

  • Firefly∆Firefly∆ Posts: 290

    Thanks. They are against a wall, under an eave; I have had them in window boxes for several years. I was interested to read here that they don't like so much watering. They look very healthy just not keen to bloom. I will have a chat with them and see what they might be craving.

  • I've found that the older the plant, the larger the tuber becomes the less flowers you get to the point that they actually stop flowering altogether once the tuber reaches a diameter of 31/2" or 90mm.

    To avoid this I collect / spread out seed from younger plants each year and chuck out anything that has a diameter of more than 21/2" or 75mm.   Plants chuck out a lot of seed and they often germinate on top of the parent plant, remove / take them away and pot them on or just chuck'em somewhere, they do re-root themselves and grow.  Randomly cast them onto the soil and leave'em or if you want to but I find it unnecessary gently firm them into the soil.  don't plant them in just firmly press them in with your boot or hand.   They'll take two to three years to start flowering and within 5 years or so chuck'em but remember to take seed every year to keep the process going.

  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Central Norfolk UKPosts: 42,805

    We've got C. hederifolium with corms the size of dinner plates and they flower profusely ... perhaps it depends on the variety? 

    Gardening is cheaper than therapy, and you get tomatoes. 
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